Hello December

I'm home-sick finally, which here means that I have landed in the good ol' USA- back to the arid AZ desert where skin turns to paper and flakes off.....back to green backs and burritos! The saguaros are all lit up for Christmas, but I'm having a hard time getting into the festive mood. Jet lag has produced a continual sore throat and now narcolepsy? or at least the reversal of my sleep patterns. So: I am home and I am also sick, making me homesick.

(Indeed, I am homesick for Paris!!!!!!)

It is hard to begin to process all that I have done and seen. Especially hard when I feel stuck in my suburb house, away from everything I've grown to love- the pigeons, the chocolate, the french, the fashion, the shutters, the old monuments, the museums every day, even the smelly metro!

Is this really home now? I'm afraid I'm suffering some reverse culture shock!

But .....

It's not that bad....

My parents have really tried to hard to welcome me home and make everything transition smoothly. Last night, my dad and I went to the downtown art museum. I saw Picasso and Monet again and almost felt normal. I described the techniques, the periods, the concepts to my dad proudly and lost myself in the art work.... it felt good.

I also find that I enjoy the wide open sky here. I forgot how vast it is, stretching on forever!!

AND I ate mexican again! Yay for a beef burrito (as alluded to earlier!) and sour cream.

Paris in November

Weather in Paris is rather windy: the clouds blow across the sky's face at an incredible speed. I can see blue sky, sun, rain and clouds at once because nature cannot make up her mind.

All the trees are decked out in yellow leaves, the late fall fashion, tres chic! I wish I had a gold necklace to wrap around my neck or a dress made of sunshine! The brilliance beams in the sunlight here! I thought that winter was always drab brown before, cold and unfriendly. But Paris, you keep proving me wrong with your colorful crispness.

Tired from the beauty, the best tired to be!

This past week was like any other in my European life: BRIMMING FULL!!

I could write such a long blog every day, but I'm sorry that I don't! I'm usually asleep from all the exhaustion and forget to update you all.

We had another family dinner, this time in the Latin Quarter (after a short rest inside Notre Dame, listening to the priest and organ). We ate at a greek restaurant. It was my first experience with greek food and dance! What a long night. I ate stuffed grape leaves, chicken, potatoes and baklava for dessert. I also tried my feet at the circle dance (left, right, under- OPA!)

......

We saw a new part of the city (well, actually just outside of Paris) called La Defence! It was incredibly modern, full of sky-scrapers and malls. It reminded me of any U.S. capitol, and I felt a little bit at home among the glass and steel. Completely different from parisian boulevards!

The most notable structure was the Grand Arche! It was made to mimic the Arc de Triomphe (which it faces). This enormous arch was created as a monument to humanity and was finished on the bicentennial of the French revolution.

Size of the Grande Arche compared to the Eiffel Tower:

View looking up:

.......

As a class we visited the Rodin Museum! I wasn't really interested in Auguste Rodin as an artist before, but NOW I am highly impressed by his sculptures! They are so emotive and deep! I wish I could create figures like them. The movement is incredible, even though they stand still. Too bad I don't have days to spare on gazing at them....Here are a few images:

The Gates of Hell (cast bronze doors):

The Thinker (bronze):

The Kiss (made of marble!):

Additionally:

This week there were other museums, photo shoots, readings, walks, and metro rides! So much goes on here, I wish you were all present to experience this grand existence! It is incredible.

This is just a tiny touch of what I have felt and seen.

Parisian Ballet!

What a wonderful evening I had in Paris two nights ago! A dream that was envisioned and burst into life.....Not more than two weeks ago I was walking past the old Opera house with my friends, giggling and wishing I had the money to attend a show......

And then, it happened! I dressed up in a nice dress, heels, the works! The two Megs, Aubs, and I headed out on the town: excitement bubbling our blood! It was unknown whether or not the four of us would get in, as we were waiting to buy the cheap, last minute tickets for over an hour. Obviously we made it in, paying only 7 Euros each!

Our seats were high up in the individuals boxes on the side of the grand theater, full of rich red velvet and gold. Megan and I had to stand to see the stage, but we were so excited to be there, watching the Parisian ballet that it didn't matter. I felt so refined. The orchestra played classical music from the pit and our eyes followed every graceful pirouette. The ballet was performed in three parts with the theme of Joyaux or Jewels. There were emeralds, rubies and diamonds set to different periods and music! We saw romantic, jazzy and classical dance set to Fauré, Stravinsky and Tchaikovsky. It was a magical evening. The lights of the city glowed in our eyes as we descended the marble steps once the curtain dropped. After all, it is not every night that a girl attends a ballet....and in Paris!!

Photograph Credit to M:

Email to my parents

I'm letting you in on an email to mes parents since I am too tired to write a blog:

Bonsoir (Bohn swah = good evening)

I'm sorry that I haven't written you lately. As I said a few days ago, I have been feeling really down: the rain, the junk food, the long naps, skipping class, not going out, etc.

But, I went out exploring finally again!

Friday, a group of us girls went to the Marmottan Museum to do some art homework and see Monet's paintings! What breath-taking art! Seeing it in person is the only true way to experience it! Pictures just don't do art justice! Even flat canvases somehow become three-dimensional before your eyes. The colors are more vibrant and alive. I wish you could see it! Of course, I will show you photos, but it is just NOT the same. After that, we spent the afternoon exploring the woods right outside of Paris (Bois de Bologne), duck watching and picture taking. The leaves are changing and falling here...mostly yellow.

Saturday we couldn't sleep in that late if we wanted to eat our free breakfast which ends at 9 am every day except Sunday. So, we got up, ate our usual chocolate filled croissants with hot chocolate before going to the nearby Parc Montsouris (Mouse Mountain Park?) to take more pictures of the scenery and birds. We saw ravens, pigeons, geese, ducks, parakeets, seagulls and a heron! Also, a stray cat. :) We wandered aimlessly until rain drove us scurrying back to the Hotel, spirits a little dampened as well. Our list of things to do while in Paris still seems so long! How will we conquer it in just twenty one days? We decided to watch Pride and Prejudice to cheer us up! It worked. :) Always.

Sunday we took it a little bit easy again...Church after lunch (1:30) followed by a trip to a different museum- the Orsay, with lots more Impressionism to delight us! We spent three hours filling out analyzing sheets before calling it a day. Spent the evening watching a movie again, instead of homework, since we'd already done some.

Today we had our seventh drawing class with Kathy Burke. Our model was a dancer this time- nude as usual- and she only kept poses for less than a minute so most of the drawing was just gestures of her continual movement. And Kathy tried something new: making us draw for one hour straight with no breaks what-so-ever. This was to teach us the lesson of perseverance! "Not only in art, but in life, just keep going!"

Megan and I left drawing with many plans in mind. We headed to the Pere Lachaise cemetery to see the graves. At first it was exciting and spooky in moss and cobwebs, but quickly lost its appeal and romance for me. I was just sad thinking of all those dead, forgotten people! And someday that will be my family! But Megan encouraged me with the thought that our death is only the beginning of life with God.

We traded the roads of tombs for another trip to the Park. This time we headed to Buttes Chaumont where Helene had taken me. Lots of climbing stairs/hiking but totally worth the effort this time. Megan and I saw two waterfalls, a half cave with stalactites, and Paris from a temple on the hilltop. What fun! The sun came out as we were leaving and I started singing "Here comes the Sun" by the the Beatles to Megan. I often embarrass her in public, but I think she still likes me anyhow.

Our last stop before heading home was Saint Michel in the middle of the city. We got off to buy some fresh crepes- cooked to order right in front of you! Meg got one with eggs, cheese and ham. Of course, mine was Nutella.

And to end this list of escapades, we are off to hopefully see the Ballet at the Opera House, if we can get some "last" minute cheap tickets (they only sell them right before the performance starts for 7 euros). I'll tell you if we make it in! Meg Gilbert went last night with her parents and had the best time.

Love you both,

Caits

An Adventure.....

So much has happened in the last two days, my weekends are full to the
brim and spilling outward! I can't begin to mop up the remains, but I
will do my best.
Friday morning, Megan and I left the Fiap super early to catch the
metro to the Train station. We were walking there at five a.m. in the
darkness, all bundled up. We got to one of the metro stops, only to
find it barred off, still closed for the day. Very dismayed, Megan
pulled out a Paris guide and quoted a page in the middle, "Most metro
lines do not open until 6 am! Some start earlier at 5:30." Our train
was scheduled to leave Paris at 5:57 am! We couldn't wait until 6am,
and we had no money to call a taxi. Our decision was to walk to the
metro stop up the way, which was connected to a major line, to see if
it opened earlier. Yes! It was running, but we missed getting on the
metro train by just seconds! Ahhh, waiting on the platform for the
next one, I kept checking my watch, sweating, only 25 minutes to
spare! Soon, another train came in, we jumped on and went our three
stops to the connection. The second that train stopped, I was out the
door, racing through the station like a wild animal, taking the
escalator up two at a time, barely seeing the directions to the next
train. We made it to the platform, caught our breath and took that
metro one stop to the station. There, we raced to the big screen to
look up our "Voie" or "Lane" that our train out of Paris left from.
More running in the huge crowd to get on with only four minutes to
spare! Talk about major stress in traveling. We had almost given up on
going and yet we found ourselves speeding out of Paris on the TGV to
Marseille, singing Hallelujahs at six in the morning and wiping our
wet brows.
The train ride took two hours to Lyon, with a two hour layover in that
city. We wandered around in the morning mist, the local library and
shops in the mall all still closed at 8am. Mostly we just sat around,
dazed, until our next train took us onward to Marseille. Lots of on
and on, pulling out our rail passes for conductors and listening to
our IPODS. Oh, and sleeping, because we'd only gotten about five hours
the past night.
As we approached our destination of Marseille on the southern coast of
France, we stopped many times, and one of the stops was
Aix-en-Provence train station. WHAT! we gasped! This is where we'd
originally planned to go, but the train wouldn't go direct. Off we
hopped, even though we weren't scheduled to depart. To our surprise,
the "gare" or train station was NOT in the city, but in the
countryside, outside of the city. And the station, though
medium-sized, lacked an information desk. I asked the woman selling
magazines where the buses were, "Downstairs" she implied in french.
Megan and I, bewildered, waited under a busy overpass next to the
train station. As I munched on some lunch, she was started to panic
and giggle. She became convinced that we should have stayed on our
train, and that now we were stranded forever. I kept thinking that
there was no way a bus would stop on this freeway/underpass. Twice, we
walked back inside, but finally out of nowhere a bus pulled up, headed
to the town of Aix (pronounced x). YES! We got on and enjoyed the
ride, watching sheep, fields and a lake pass by. Entering the city, we
were again startled. It was not an old, charming town, but a bustling,
dirty little city, full of ugly modern buildings and traffic! An
american girl on the bus overheard us talking, and kindly showed us
where the "old" town was located a few blocks away. If she had not
come to our rescue, I'm afraid we would not have had a very good day
at all!
After getting a map from the tourism office, we wandered around the
romantic narrow streets, taking pictures of the "old" buildings, and
pretty cafes. This was the Aix we had pictured in our heads! Quaint
and charming, full of character and fountains. We also found a mexican
restaurant hidden away from one of the main walks, and ate lunch
there. It wasn't quite right, I think they used curry seasoning, but
it was very close, as close you as you can get in FRANCE to mexican!
Can't wait to come home and have a real mexican burrito....anyway. We
spent about three hours just wandering the narrow streets, until we
figured we'd better take the bus back the station and go to Marseille
while the sun was still shining.

Back at the train station, we realized our error. We did not have a
ticket to go to Marseille now. Ours had been for our morning train
only. Now, all the trains coming through required "reservations" to
get on and our student pass was not sufficient. We stood, fretting, on
the platform, watching train after train stop and then head on to
Marseille. Finally, we just made a snap decision to jump on one, and
hope the conductor would not check our tickets. Luck was on our side!
It was only a fifteen minute ride and we arrived! This was much later
in the day- now close to 3:30 or 4, and the sun was already setting.
This city was MUCH bigger than Aix, and we could barley see the ocean
glinting in the distance from the hill where the station sat. As tired
as the two of us were, there was no way that we could walk there and
back in two and half hours with no map. We decided to wander about the
closer neighborhoods, instead, cameras in hand. It was similar to
Paris, the streets were full of busy traffic and there was graffiti on
some of the buildings; it smelled, men and women stared at us. We
didn't care for it as much as we thought we would- sound familiar?
Megan kept reminiscing about Honfleur and I said, "Let's just keep
walking." Things began looking less sketchy. We found a small park and
then a pretty little cathedral (St. Paul Vincent?) and relaxed in the
dark, deserted interior for at least half an hour. Although we could
still hear the noise of the city, it felt peaceful. Sunlight shone
through the intricate stain glass windows and spread rainbow patterns
on the walls. We decided after that we'd had ENOUGH! Although we
missed seeing the Roman temples, the white cliffs of France and the
Marseille harbor, we were happy just watching the sunset from the
train station, baguette in hand (and mouth). On our much faster and
direct ride back to Paris, I watched the people around me, a worried
looking middle aged woman, and a spoiled young teenager....a young
couple in love talking animatedly to each other, an old man reading
and solving puzzles. It was fun to just imagine what their lives were
like.

I'm so glad that Megan and I visited southern France, even though we
were a little ill-prepared, and it wasn't what we thought it would be!
Now, at least I can add those cities to my list of "visited" and also
learn valuable lessons about planning and traveling! It was a fun
adventure!
I hope you enjoyed this little episode from my european life! I should
write more, I know, but I'm so tired from this life, I sleep instead
of write!

Impressionism: a lesson

A big day today!!

The Impressionism museum finally- Musee D'Orsay! YAY! My favorite artists on display Manet, Monet, Degas, Renoir! Oooo la la!

Flat paint, dabbed brushstrokes, momentary patterns, texture, on the spot, arrested moments, light and reflections! Optical sensations delighting my pupils!

Japanese prints affected the impressionists, as well as the advent of photography!

Impressionism

1874-86

(Only lasted twelve years)

The Salons and Academies rejected this new style and became stuffy and formulaic. Napoleon lll made a new salon (art exhibition) for "art refused" and initially the crowds came to mock at the "un-finished" work of Impressionism. People are not always ready for new things. At first critics hated it. Impressionism was a derisive term coined by a critic, "It's an impression, not a finished painting!" Impressionism Sunrise (by Monet) helped name the movement!

New discoveries in optics and color. Color has more to do with the reaction in the retina of the eyes than the object itself- sensations. New theories of color- for example red and blue make purple, but you can also achieve this by putting red and blue right next to each other.

Form implied by different intensities of color.

Hard outlines do not exist in nature.

Shadows are not black (discovered by Vermeer) but the complementary color of the object casting it.

New premixed pigments in tubes (never done before!) to go out in nature and paint on location instead of in the studio!

Eduard Manet- realist and impressionist painter. Father of Modern Art

Claude Monet- first full impressionist painter. (technique: large, random dabs) Liked reflections, water, fog)

Chevreul- color theorist

Camille Pissarro- questions the looseness of other impressionists. Known for pointillism (tiny dots) in parallel direction and tight control.

Gustave Caillebotte- wealthy academic painter, subsidized other artists exhibitions.

Pierre-Auguste Renoir- More classical, linear, focused on people. Known for filtered sunlight.

Edgar Degas- Known for interior lighting.

Van Gogh......

Intent: to capture the quality of light present. Light is the subject matter, not people or boats or landscapes or trains, but light. Light is fugitive -giving fugitive sensations from color. Idea of the way we see, not what we see (introduction to abstraction).